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Planning estimate · West Valley City, UTBelow a slab, a bathroom is priced by its drain long before it is priced by its tile. This asks where your waste line leaves the house and how far the fixtures sit from it, because those two answers are most of the difference between $12,000 and $35,000.
Upstairs, waste falls into a stack and leaves. In a basement, the fixtures sit at or below the level of the line they need to reach, so the first question is whether gravity is available at all. If the main sewer leaves the foundation below the slab, you saw-cut the concrete, trench to fall, connect, and re-pour. If it leaves above the basement floor, waste has to collect in a sealed basin set into the slab and be lifted by a sewage ejector pump.
That is the difference between a straightforward rough-in and one that carries a pit, a basin, a pump, a dedicated vent and a circuit for it. Current figures put a standard three-fixture basement rough-in at roughly $3,000 to $5,500, rising past $7,000 where there is heavy excavation or an ejector pump, with the concrete work alone — breaking out the slab and re-pouring — at $1,000 to $2,500.
Distance matters for the same reason. Below-slab drain has to fall about a quarter of an inch per foot, so a long run means digging deeper at the far end as well as cutting more concrete. Moving the bathroom closer to the existing stack is free while it is still a drawing, and it is the single cheapest decision on this page.
Whether the main line leaves above or below the basement floor. Worth twenty minutes with a torch tonight, because it changes this estimate by thousands and it may change where you put the room.
Every foot of new below-slab drain is saw-cutting, breaking out, trenching to fall, laying pipe, backfilling and re-pouring. It adds up quickly and it is entirely within your control at the layout stage.
Two fixtures, three or four. Each one needs a drain, a vent and a supply, so the count moves the number more than the floor area of the room does.
Every trap needs a vent or it siphons dry and the room smells. Tying into a nearby stack is cheap. Chasing a new vent up through the house to the roof is not. An air admittance valve is cheap where it is accepted and a re-do where it is not.
Tile, the vanity, the shower enclosure, the valve and the fixtures. This is the second largest lever after the drain, and unlike the drain it can be changed later.
A basement bathroom needs mechanical extraction ducted to outside, not into the joist space. A heated floor is a genuine comfort item on a slab and it is cheap to add while the floor is open.
Send a couple of photos of the space, rough dimensions, and tell us roughly when the house was built. You will get a straight answer about what the slab, the panel and the drain will allow before anyone talks about finishes.
This site publishes $10,000 to $18,000 for a powder room, $18,000 to $30,000 for a three-quarter bathroom and $25,000 to $40,000 and up for a full bathroom. The calculator lands inside those for the equivalent specification, and shows you which lines are driving the number.
It is a sealed basin set into the slab with a pump that lifts waste up to the main line. You need one when the sewer leaves the house above the level of your new fixtures. Find the main drain at the bottom of the stairs: if it disappears into the slab, you probably do not need one; if it runs out through the wall above floor level, you do.
A standard three-fixture rough-in runs roughly $3,000 to $5,500, and past $7,000 where there is heavy excavation or an ejector pump. Breaking out the slab and re-pouring is $1,000 to $2,500 of that on its own.
They exist and they work, and they avoid cutting the slab. They also limit what else can drain into them, they need power, and they are a mechanical part in a wall you would rather never think about. For a single half bath in an awkward corner they are worth considering; for a three-fixture bathroom you are usually better off doing the drain properly once.
Yes. West Valley City requires a permit for altering plumbing fixtures to accommodate more fixtures, for adding or altering electrical circuits, and for ductwork. The published fees are modest: the basement remodel permit starts at $53 by square footage, with $53 each for electrical and mechanical.
No — mechanical extraction ducted to outside is what the code asks for, and that is what the calculator prices. A window is nice if you have one and it changes nothing about the requirement.
On a slab, more than anywhere else in the house. An electric mat under the tile is a small cost while the floor is open and effectively impossible to add afterwards, and a basement slab stays cold from November to April here.
Where the drain is, unless you have a strong reason not to. The difference between a bathroom at the stack and one thirty feet away is several thousand dollars of concrete work, and once the walls are up nobody remembers which side of the room it was going to be on.